Hollow weave obi sash of Saga nishiki with vegetable dyed threads. “Bell cricket”

Saga brocade

Saga brocade (Saga nishiki) is a woven fabric that uses dyed silk threads for the weft (horizontal threads) and finely cut strips of washi paper called tategami for the warp (vertical threads). The paper strips are grouped and lifted apart using a bamboo tool called a shed stick, and the silk thread weft is passed through the gap to create the desired pattern. Repeatedly running the weft through the gaps between the paper strips results in a fabric with beautiful, orderly patterns.